Air conditioners usually fail for a few repeatable reasons—restricted airflow, dirty coils, thermostat/control issues, low refrigerant, or blocked drainage—so most “AC not cooling” complaints can be narrowed down quickly with a simple checklist. Dirty filters/coils and incorrect refrigerant charge are also common efficiency killers that make the system run longer and cost more to operate.
5 common AC problems
1) AC not cooling (clogged air filter)
Typical signs
Weak airflow from vents / indoor unit and slow cooling.
Ice/frost on the indoor coil in some cases (because airflow gets restricted).
Why it happens
A clogged/dirty filter restricts airflow, reducing the AC’s ability to move warm air across the coil and deliver cool air effectively.
Restricted airflow can contribute to frozen components (like the evaporator coil).
How to fix (DIY)
Turn the unit off, remove the filter, clean it (if washable) or replace it, then run the AC again.
Keep return vents unblocked so airflow stays steady (basic airflow issues can trigger bigger problems).
When to call a technician
If cooling doesn’t improve after a filter clean/replace, the issue may be coil dirt, refrigerant level, or a failing part.
2) AC running but still warm (dirty condenser coil)
Typical signs
The AC runs longer than usual and struggles to remove heat.
Outdoor unit looks dusty or blocked by leaves/debris.
Why it happens
The condenser coil (outdoor) must reject heat; dirt/leaves/debris reduce heat transfer, forcing the AC to work harder and cool worse.
Dirty coils reduce the system’s ability to cool and can increase energy costs while shortening equipment life.
How to fix (DIY)
Switch off power, gently clear leaves and debris around the outdoor unit, and keep some open space for airflow.
Light cleaning may help, but deep coil cleaning should be done carefully to avoid damage.
When to call a technician
If the coil is heavily clogged or fins are bent, professional cleaning is safer and more effective.
3) Water leaking from indoor unit (clogged condensate drain)
Typical signs
Water dripping from the indoor unit or damp patches near it.
In some systems, a clogged drain can cause shutdowns or humidity problems.
Why it happens
The evaporator coil removes moisture from air, creating condensate that should flow out through a drain line.
Mold/algae/debris can build up and block the drain, potentially causing overflow and water damage.
How to fix (DIY)
Locate the drain access and flush the drain line; common home methods include distilled white vinegar, hot water, or hydrogen peroxide as a cleaning solution.
If safe and accessible, ensure the drain outlet isn’t physically blocked.
When to call a technician
If leaks persist or you see repeated clogging, a professional should clear and inspect the drain system to prevent damage and recurring humidity issues.
4) Frozen evaporator coil (ice on indoor coil)
Typical signs
Visible ice on the indoor coil/lines and reduced cooling.
Water leakage after the ice melts.
Why it happens
Insufficient airflow (often from dirty filters) can lead to freezing.
Low refrigerant can also cause the evaporator coil to freeze.
How to fix (DIY)
Turn off cooling (or turn the system off) to let the ice melt, then clean/replace the air filter and check airflow.
If freezing returns quickly, avoid repeated run cycles until the root cause is fixed.
When to call a technician
If low refrigerant is suspected, professional diagnosis is needed (refrigerant issues aren’t a safe DIY fix).
5) Hissing sound / oily residue / poor cooling (refrigerant leak or low refrigerant)
Typical signs
Reduced cooling performance because the system can’t operate efficiently at low charge.
Possible hissing sound near the indoor/outdoor coil areas and/or oily residue around components.
Why it happens
A leak causes low refrigerant levels (low charge), which lowers efficiency and cooling capacity.
Too much or too little refrigerant makes the system less efficient and can reduce equipment life.
How to fix
Refrigerant leak testing, repair, evacuation, and correct recharging should be done by a trained HVAC professional.
When to call a technician (immediately)
If you suspect a leak (hissing/oily residue), stop running the unit and schedule service.
Quick troubleshooting checklist
Use this order to avoid wasting time:
Check thermostat settings (mode = Cool, temperature set lower than room temperature) before opening the unit.
Check/clean the air filter first because restricted airflow is a frequent cause of weak cooling and icing.
Inspect the outdoor unit area for debris buildup that can reduce heat transfer.
If there’s water leakage, check the drain line for blockage and flush it.
If ice is present, thaw first, then address airflow and get refrigerant checked if freezing repeats.
Preventive maintenance
Simple habits prevent most breakdowns:
Change/clean filters regularly to avoid airflow restriction and performance loss.
Clean evaporator and condenser coils because dirty coils reduce cooling ability and increase energy costs.
Inspect the condensate drain; a plugged drain can cause water damage and affect indoor humidity.
Get refrigerant levels checked during routine service because incorrect charge reduces efficiency and can shorten equipment life.
When to call a technician
Book professional service if any of the following happens:
Suspected refrigerant leak (hissing sound, oily residue, or persistent low cooling).
Repeated coil freezing after filter cleaning and airflow checks.
Ongoing water leakage or repeated drain clogs (to prevent water damage and mold issues).
FAQ
Why is my AC running but not cooling?
Common causes include a clogged air filter, dirty condenser coils, or low/incorrect refrigerant charge.
Can a dirty filter really cause an AC to freeze?
Yes—restricted airflow from a dirty filter can contribute to ice buildup and a frozen evaporator coil.
Is water dripping from the indoor unit serious?
It can be, because blocked condensate drains may lead to overflow, humidity issues, and even water damage if ignored.
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